What are Thin Lips?

Thin lips, sometimes called small lips or a thin upper lip, are often one of the first places you notice the face aging. The part that changes most is the vermilion. That is the colored border where the lip meets the surrounding skin, and where your lipstick sits.

As the rest of the lip ages, the vermilion loses volume and starts to show fine lines and dryness. For some people that begins as early as their late twenties.

Why does thin vermilion affect facial aesthetic?

If you have always had thin lips and you like them, there is nothing to fix here. They only become a sign of aging when lips that used to be fuller start to thin out.

Pull up an old photo and compare. You will usually see the lips have lost some of their fullness, because the collagen is fading and the muscles around the mouth are losing their tone. That thinning often brings fine lines and wrinkles with it, which can age the whole face.

What causes thin vermilion?

Decreased collagen production

The most common reason lips thin out is a drop in collagen. Collagen is what keeps skin elastic, and it gives your lips their support and plumpness. As you get older your body makes less of it, and the vermilion gets thinner. (1)

Sun exposure

A little sun is good for you. Too much of it damages your skin, which is why sunblock matters, and the same goes for your lips.

Spend long stretches in the sun and the collagen in your lips starts to break down. Over time the vermilion and the lips themselves thin out and lose their fullness. (2)

B vitamins deficiency

B vitamins, and vitamin B12 in particular, keep your skin, hair, and lips healthy. When you run low on them, your skin loses collagen and starts to crack, lips included. Given enough time, the vermilion and the whole lip get thinner. (3)

Genetics

A lot of your lip shape comes down to your genes. Some people are simply born with full lips, and others inherit thinner lips and a thinner vermilion. (4)

Lifestyle choices

A few everyday habits speed up lip aging, like smoking, biting your lips, and drinking through a straw. Smoking is the worst of them, because it inflames and damages the skin. (5)

Dehydration

Your lips do not have sweat or oil glands. Sweat glands keep skin hydrated and oil glands keep it from drying out, and your lips have neither. That is why they dry out faster than anywhere else on your body. (6)

Actinic cheilitis

Actinic cheilitis is a more serious lip condition. It comes from damage to the surface layer of the lip. It is not dangerous on its own, but it does raise your risk of skin cancer, and it comes with thinning of the vermilion. It usually shows up on the lower lip, though it can affect the upper lip too. (7

How to prevent thin vermilion?

Stay hydrated

Dehydration and too much caffeine stress your skin and speed up collagen loss. Keep yourself hydrated and drink enough water through the day.

Stay away from harmful activities

Smoking, heavy sun, lip biting, and drinking through straws all break down collagen and slow how much your body makes. Try to protect your teeth from wearing down too. When teeth wear down, the lips pull inward and end up looking thinner.

Increase your protein and vitamin C intake

Eat plenty of protein and vitamin C, since both help your body build stronger, healthier collagen. Chicken, beans, and nuts are good protein sources, and green vegetables are rich in vitamin C.

Always hydrate your lips

Lip ointments and oils keep your lips hydrated through the day, and coconut oil and sweet almond oil work especially well. Put a layer on before bed so your lips stay moisturized overnight.

How to treat thin vermilion?

Lip fillers

Lip fillers are usually the first option for thin lips and a thin vermilion. There are several kinds, including Voluma, Perlane, Juvederm, and Restylane.

Your doctor will look at the shape and condition of your lips, take photos to plan the best shape and symmetry, and decide where to place the filler. The whole thing takes about 15 to 30 minutes, and you can go home right after. It does not last forever, but it is a good fix when you have something coming up, like a wedding. (8, 9)

Lip implants

Fillers are temporary and tend to last six to eight months. If you want something longer lasting, lip implants are the usual alternative. Your doctor picks the right size for your lips. It is a simple procedure that takes about 30 minutes, and you can go home the same day, though you will need follow-up visits until the sutures dissolve. (10)

Fat grafting (autologous lip augmentation)

Fat grafting uses your own tissue to add volume, which is why many people find the result more natural than implants or fillers. The fat is taken from your abdomen and moved into the vermilion and lips. It is usually done under local anesthesia, and you can go home the same day. The results can last more than five years. (11)

Tissue grafting

Tissue grafting is another way of using your own tissue, except it uses your skin or dermis instead of fat. The skin usually comes from the lower abdomen. The top layer is removed, and the rest is placed into the lips. It is done under local anesthesia, takes about 60 to 90 minutes, and lets you go home the same day. The results can keep your lips full for more than five years. (12)